Single Dose, Low Retention Grinder Project
- MB
- Posts: 792
- Joined: 10 years ago
I've been thinking for some time about about how I could get titan class quality grinding, convenient adjustability, low retention, plus other conveniences in an electric, affordable package. (I know, I know, get in line). I considered building something on my own, but that was really too big of a step/gamble. Even if I could get parts machined, by the time it was all done, it A) would exceed the budget, and B) might not have the tolerances necessary. I also considered saving up for a large conical grinder, but I already have another item I'm saving for.
I considered motorizing the VVD'd Pharos grinder I have, but how to do it (and nice enough to reside in the kitchen with my SO approval)? Pulleys and a timing belt might work for the drive. Or, maybe a motor directly above? I had read about someone using a drill, so I started sketching up some ideas. I tried using a cap nut and socket drive with a standard corded drill. It didn't have enough torque unless running close to full speed, and that seemed way too fast. I also have a low speed high torque variable speed drill, so I tried that, and it seemed able to handle the force necessary at lower speeds.
Okay, so how to make it nice enough for the kitchen? Some kind of enclosure, right? I started with a nice wood back board and aluminum flashing wrapping around. Then figured I could veneer the flashing. It could be removable and replaceable if needed.
So, here's the plan:
I considered motorizing the VVD'd Pharos grinder I have, but how to do it (and nice enough to reside in the kitchen with my SO approval)? Pulleys and a timing belt might work for the drive. Or, maybe a motor directly above? I had read about someone using a drill, so I started sketching up some ideas. I tried using a cap nut and socket drive with a standard corded drill. It didn't have enough torque unless running close to full speed, and that seemed way too fast. I also have a low speed high torque variable speed drill, so I tried that, and it seemed able to handle the force necessary at lower speeds.
Okay, so how to make it nice enough for the kitchen? Some kind of enclosure, right? I started with a nice wood back board and aluminum flashing wrapping around. Then figured I could veneer the flashing. It could be removable and replaceable if needed.
So, here's the plan:
- Wall mounted (with the option for a stand)
Grinds into basket on scale (with WTD funnel to keep dose in)
Removable grounds funnel (interchangeable as well)
Easy to adjust speed
Enough space to load beans easily
Ability to return to 1 degree settings
LMWDP #472
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- Posts: 78
- Joined: 9 years ago
Nice! I'm really enjoying these DIY projects that keep popping up. Best of luck, will try to keep an eye on this to see where you land.
- FotonDrv
- Supporter ♡
- Posts: 3748
- Joined: 11 years ago
Nice idea and I am sure it will work AND look good as well. It might even pass the WAF test (wife acceptance factor).
That Light at the End of the Tunnel is actually a train
- MB (original poster)
- Posts: 792
- Joined: 10 years ago
- bostonbuzz
- Posts: 1261
- Joined: 13 years ago
Reminds me of this post from a while ago. Pharos - Removing Grounds (voodoodaddy mod)
One problem is that the distribution from conical burrs in a straight-through design causes channeling. Good luck.
One problem is that the distribution from conical burrs in a straight-through design causes channeling. Good luck.
LMWDP #353
- CoffeeBar
- Posts: 644
- Joined: 10 years ago
bostonbuzz wrote:Reminds me of this post from a while ago. Pharos - Removing Grounds (voodoodaddy mod)
One problem is that the distribution from conical burrs in a straight-through design causes channeling..
so,does the WDT solve this channeling problem?
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- Posts: 78
- Joined: 9 years ago
One would think, though I believe that straight-through is how the Sette, HG One and Versalab, which are all well-reviewed (though the Sette isn't fully available yet).CoffeeBar wrote:so,does the WDT solve this channeling problem?
- MB (original poster)
- Posts: 792
- Joined: 10 years ago
I'll experiment with the different output chutes (which are planned to be attached magnetically), but WDT is already part of my routine.
LMWDP #472
- MB (original poster)
- Posts: 792
- Joined: 10 years ago
So, without the crank handle to aid in indicating a zero point for grind settings, I guess that I could just make settings relative to the last setting. For example, if it pulls a little too fast, move the VVD pointer a degree or two clockwise. However, I wanted to have a zero reference for various settings and in case it gets bumped or turned by accident.
Here's what I came up with. I'll put a carbon fiber or metal rod through the hole I drilled in the socket, and line it up with the edge of the back board before adjusting the dial.
Here's what I came up with. I'll put a carbon fiber or metal rod through the hole I drilled in the socket, and line it up with the edge of the back board before adjusting the dial.
LMWDP #472