Mazzer reassembly problem after burr replacement - Page 4

#31: Post by **MVendi81** » January 26th, 2012, 10:27 am

cafeIKE wrote:Bearings and Hammers don't mix, ever

I'm very lucky to be able to say I dodged a bullet this time around. I was never comfortable with doing this, nor will I ever be doing it again.

#32: Post by **tomasso** » January 26th, 2012, 10:03 pm

Well don't get discouraged, as if you normally clean a grinder it will last longer. The key is if it's cleaned, it is easier to take apart the next time for cleaning.

Try the PB Blaster. It loosens things up. Don't over tighten screws and bolts on reassembly.

I thought more about the "3-screw method" described to pull off the lower burr housing. It sounds neat, but I wouldn't try it. First, with screws you can apply a lot of pressure on a brass burr carrier. How far is too far when tightening the screws? Can the brass carrier slightly warp, or crack, or even break?

Second, the screws are small, and you are applying the pressure to a relatively thin layer of threads in the brass carrier. If the screws are steel, if there is a failure at the threads the brass will go first.

Finally, all of this pressure transfers from the burr carrier to the motor shaft to the bearings. What if they move, even slightly?

I know, some will say only tighten the screws very lightly. But if it's not absolutely stuck on, the burr would pry up easily in the first place.

#33: Post by **MVendi81** » January 27th, 2012, 11:07 am

When I finally got the burr carrier out for the first time, I cleaned everything thoroughly (I'm a self-proclaimed neat freak, btw

). Before replacing it, I took a q-tip and applied a very small amount of food-safe Haynes Lubrifilm both to the rotor shaft and to the inner sleeve of the carrier--this combination along with John's ingenious idea of using a blow dryer to apply some heat made the reseating job much easier (Thanks again, John!).

Out of curiosity, I tried removing the carrier again yesterday using only the blow dryer and my bare hands. It worked just as I had thought! I didn't even need the 3-screw method.

I can't say I'm the biggest advocate of keeping a coffee grinder compulsively clean, but it is nice to have such easy access to all the nooks and crannies of this grinder...especially for those couple times a year when I am looking for that "brand-new" clean.

#34: Post by **MVendi81** » February 3rd, 2012, 10:14 am

Had a quick question...

When the grinder is empty, how long should it usually take the for the motor to spin down?

#35: Post by **cafeIKE** » February 5th, 2012, 2:27 pm

Depends on the grinder and gearing.

MC4 stops in a second or two.
MXC & MXK take several seconds

#36: Post by **MVendi81** » February 7th, 2012, 2:37 pm

cafeIKE wrote:Depends on the grinder and gearing.

How about a Mazzer Mini Electronic? I've heard these tend to stop a lot quicker than the standard Mini, and are more similar to a Super Jolly, which takes no more than a couple seconds to spin down.

#37: Post by **bgn** » February 7th, 2012, 9:49 pm

I have a mini and a major. mini is 5-6 seconds. Major is 1-2 seconds. Mini is doser/timer model. Major is also a doser.