Homemaster RO water + remineralization - Page 2

Water analysis, treatment, and mineral recipes for optimum taste and equipment health.
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homeburrero
Team HB

#11: Post by homeburrero »

katkat wrote:Question: how low of TDS is too low for the machine's health? My friend is getting steady 30ppm and I am getting 18ppm right now (after installation; I think it will go up as water sit in the remineralizer and enter the tank.) Source water is 230ppm right now.
It really depends on what minerals are in that 18 ppm TDS. If your water out of the RO (before the remin) is very low, so you can assume that most of that TDS is due to dissolved calcite, then I think you may be OK despite that low number.

Watch it over time, and ideally it will come up closer to 30 ppm. Always try to let the sample warm to about 25C before measuring.

Two possible reasons for lower than expected mineralization are fast flow (low contact time in the remin cartridge) and relatively high pH of the water out of the RO (if the water into the remin cartridge is less acidic it will dissolve less mineral.) When you have higher pH (less acidic) water, then I think you can get away with lower remineralization from a machine health standpoint.
Pat
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katkat (original poster)
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#12: Post by katkat (original poster) »

I ended up relocating the RO system under the sink after experiencing the same issue with the new filter stack in the basement. I kept the tube going from the kitchen cabinet, down to the basement and up to my fridge. The RO system has been working flawlessly since relocating it. Again - kudos to Homemaster for their phenomenal support.

I am now getting 25-30ppm 16-20ppm when measured in room temperature (20 Celsius).

Special thanks to @homeburrero for this journey...

Edit: the original ppm reading was incorrect. Also the issue that I had with the RO system is not related to the location in the basement vs. undersink, as it happened again undersink. I hope I am not crazy, but there's a chance it's caused by an LG washer (Google: LG water hammer) adjacent to the filter, causing the permeate pump to stop functioning after a few days/weeks. I noticed that the RO tubing was moving aggressively when the washer uses pulses of water in the beginning of the cycle. It seems that installing a water hammer arrestor + lowering the incoming pressure for the washer solved the problem.

Edit2: I have given up on the permeate pump and possibly on the entire system after the issue happened again. I believe it will work without the pump, but the 1:4 product-to-waste ratio bothers me.

katkat (original poster)
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#13: Post by katkat (original poster) »

The permeate pump stopped working again today and I basically got tap water out of the RO system. I really tried to make it work but there's something in my house that's causing issues with the pump (see my edits in my previous post.)

I will be looking into other 1:1 filters such as the PH-100 https://www.homedepot.com/p/ISPRING-6-S ... lsrc=aw.ds and https://livingwatersocal.com/product/li ... -h75-plus/

I am still unclear about the impact of very low mineral content on the health of the machine. I got about 20ppm out of the Homemaster, where water passes through the Calcite filter twice and with something like the iSpring, I read that you get only 10-15 at best. Any guidance or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.